Have you checked vacuum line which is connected to EGR?
Beiträge von Saulius
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It was done by best gearboxes specialists in city so I believe they done everything correctly.
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I changed about 7-8 months ago. It was not ZF oil but one which fits the same spec and is suitable for zf8. Anyway same situation (gears engage) was before and after change.
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my problem is that when car engages from 4-3, 3-2 during downshift it stopping car and deacreasing speed very noticable. For example when I go 40km/h and release throttle car automatically slowing down, which is normal, but once time comes to downshift it shifts down with the "force" and stopping car a lot (from 30 to 15-20 or from 20 to 10) and I can feel thru my body that it just struggles shift to "neutral" and release the gear. If I brake downshifts acts normal. Im going to check transmission oil soon.
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I also have the RPM moving in discrete steps when applying light throttle just like in your video. Also lots of new engine parts (egr, maf, walnut blasting, ...) so I suspect it comes from the transmission. But no hard shifts once the transmission is warm.
Same milage, same engine. I flashed my DME and EGS to the latest version, didn't change anything.do you have any hard downshifts? For example when you release gas pedal does downshifts slowing the car once engage lower gear?
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Ive noticed that my dde variant is d72n47a0:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zrh4…/20200105_130132.jpg?dl=0Is it normal for N57 xd engine?
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Also the Flapper Valve Actuator Arm can break off due overload
maybe you will know. Is there any side effects if I will remove swirl flaps?
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I see from the KM’s on one of the pics that you are approaching 150,000 KM’s.
This is about the time when Carbon Deposits start to potentially cause issues. Verkokung in German... This can be normal depending on how the Car has been driven over time and the type of fuel used.
Lots of City driving not so good, spirited / Autobahn driving better.
Best way fwd is to have someone do a Borescope check of the entire EGR tract from the EGR Cooler up to the Inlet Valves with most concentration looking at the Inlet Manifold where the Flapper Valves are located that regulates the EGR flow.
Since you disconnected the EGR and it seemed to be better this makes most sense.
30 minute check and you know for sure without shotgun troubleshooting various parts which is expensive.
There is also a recall of the AGR Cooler itself due leaking Glycol and the resulting Fire Hazards... Has that been done ? Some Dealers do just that and don’t look any farther about the condition of Carbon deposits downstream.
If there are signs of heavy Carbon Deposits then it needs to be cleaned out and after that adaptations reset... but only after a thorough cleaning. Not cheap, lots of labor but unfortunately the way it is with modern Diesels, not just BMW.
hello MunichMark,
Unfortunetaly car been driven mostly in city. EGR cooler was replaced 10k km ago by BMW recall, intake manifold and flaps was completly cleaned but as I said it doesnt gave any impact. After all this cleaning I took a drive for 300km with high revs to burn as much carbon as possible and this helped to reduce fuel consumption up to 2 l/100km but nothing more. EGR valve also replaced, flow rate was increased from 0 to 0.7 and according to rheingold live data it moves without problem. So thats why Im out of options what to do and looking for any help in this forum.
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is it normal that throttle valve doesnt move more than 5% on acceleration or when Im braking down?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sbdl…170807_Messenger.jpg?dl=0 -
Have you tried to do a diagnosis with Rheingold, or did you change the parts by "guessing"?
I tried without any luck. About half year ago I got engine light on, it said air mass too low than calculated, then I cleaned out my MAF, MAP and intake manifold, it was dirty af. Engine light went off but after few weeks came on once again, but now it was air mass too high than calculated one. So I've replaced MAF and error didnt appeard for next months, but it didn't solved any jerky gears or rpm shake problems. Month ago I got drivetrain fault for 3 seconds and it gone. So EGR valve got stuck in open/closed possition, so I replaced it by new one. Once again it didnt solved any problems. So I was still searching for a problem and I took out turbocharger for inspection and it axis had movement so it was necessary to replace it and I replaced it. So after turbo replacement car became more responsive but still jerky in trafic but not that much. Finally on thursday I decided to disconnect EGR vacuum control valve (11 74 7 810 831) and car runned much better/started easier/downshifting was a lot of smoother and it was not so noisy. So I replaced this vacuum valve and it got better but not that good when it was disconnected (engine light didnt came on).
