BMW 2011 530xd rpm shake (ENGLISH)

Saulius · 24. November 2019

hello everyone,
First of all Im sorry that I will write everything in english, your response in german will also will be very valuable for me (I will translate).
So, 1 year ago I bought 2011 BMW F10 530 xdrive 190kW 130k. From the day when I bought it Im trying to solve some irritating problems - jerky 1-2-3 gears, hard downshifting and RPM shake (video below).
So what have I done so far:
1. Changed transmission oil
2. Changed VTG oil
3. Changed booth guibo joints.
4. Replaced turbocharger, egr, maf.
5. Cleaned intake manifold, MAP sensor.
6. Replaced vacuum transfer sensor (on egr)

And it got better, but still car is annoying to drive in and all these changes did not solve the rpm shake problem. Any ideas?

Forgot to mention that sometimes when Im driving same speed (about 80km/h) I starting to feel "kicking" every 2 seconds. Changing gear doesnt help. But it happens only sometimes.

video:

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R6-Diesel · 24. November 2019

I haven't seen a problem in the video. Could you please explain more precise what the problem is or at what time in the video the problem occurs?

Saulius · 24. November 2019

Zitat von R6-Diesel

I haven't seen a problem in the video. Could you please explain more precise what the problem is or at what time in the video the problem occurs?

hello,
Thanks for reply. In video from 9 second you can notice rpm "shaky" drops (not smooth) when Im releasing accelerator pedal.

**AltinB1306** · 24. November 2019

Have you tried to do a diagnosis with Rheingold, or did you change the parts by "guessing"?

Saulius · 24. November 2019

Zitat von AltinB1306

Have you tried to do a diagnosis with Rheingold, or did you change the parts by "guessing"?

I tried without any luck. About half year ago I got engine light on, it said air mass too low than calculated, then I cleaned out my MAF, MAP and intake manifold, it was dirty af. Engine light went off but after few weeks came on once again, but now it was air mass too high than calculated one. So I've replaced MAF and error didnt appeard for next months, but it didn't solved any jerky gears or rpm shake problems. Month ago I got drivetrain fault for 3 seconds and it gone. So EGR valve got stuck in open/closed possition, so I replaced it by new one. Once again it didnt solved any problems. So I was still searching for a problem and I took out turbocharger for inspection and it axis had movement so it was necessary to replace it and I replaced it. So after turbo replacement car became more responsive but still jerky in trafic but not that much. Finally on thursday I decided to disconnect EGR vacuum control valve (11 74 7 810 831) and car runned much better/started easier/downshifting was a lot of smoother and it was not so noisy. So I replaced this vacuum valve and it got better but not that good when it was disconnected (engine light didnt came on).

**AltinB1306** · 24. November 2019

Would try to drive the car by longer time without it (disconnected) and check, if it's getting better.

Strange, that there is no fault message appearing...

Saulius · 24. November 2019

is it normal that throttle valve doesnt move more than 5% on acceleration or when Im braking down?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sbdl…170807_Messenger.jpg?dl=0

MunichMark · 24. November 2019

I see from the KM’s on one of the pics that you are approaching 150,000 KM’s.

This is about the time when Carbon Deposits start to potentially cause issues. Verkokung in German... This can be normal depending on how the Car has been driven over time and the type of fuel used.

Lots of City driving not so good, spirited / Autobahn driving better.

Best way fwd is to have someone do a Borescope check of the entire EGR tract from the EGR Cooler up to the Inlet Valves with most concentration looking at the Inlet Manifold where the Flapper Valves are located that regulates the EGR flow.

Since you disconnected the EGR and it seemed to be better this makes most sense.

30 minute check and you know for sure without shotgun troubleshooting various parts which is expensive.

There is also a recall of the AGR Cooler itself due leaking Glycol and the resulting Fire Hazards... Has that been done ? Some Dealers do just that and don’t look any farther about the condition of Carbon deposits downstream.

If there are signs of heavy Carbon Deposits then it needs to be cleaned out and after that adaptations reset... but only after a thorough cleaning. Not cheap, lots of labor but unfortunately the way it is with modern Diesels, not just BMW.

Saulius · 24. November 2019

Zitat von MunichMark

I see from the KM’s on one of the pics that you are approaching 150,000 KM’s.

This is about the time when Carbon Deposits start to potentially cause issues. Verkokung in German... This can be normal depending on how the Car has been driven over time and the type of fuel used.

Lots of City driving not so good, spirited / Autobahn driving better.

Best way fwd is to have someone do a Borescope check of the entire EGR tract from the EGR Cooler up to the Inlet Valves with most concentration looking at the Inlet Manifold where the Flapper Valves are located that regulates the EGR flow.

Since you disconnected the EGR and it seemed to be better this makes most sense.

30 minute check and you know for sure without shotgun troubleshooting various parts which is expensive.

There is also a recall of the AGR Cooler itself due leaking Glycol and the resulting Fire Hazards... Has that been done ? Some Dealers do just that and don’t look any farther about the condition of Carbon deposits downstream.

If there are signs of heavy Carbon Deposits then it needs to be cleaned out and after that adaptations reset... but only after a thorough cleaning. Not cheap, lots of labor but unfortunately the way it is with modern Diesels, not just BMW.

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hello MunichMark,
Unfortunetaly car been driven mostly in city. EGR cooler was replaced 10k km ago by BMW recall, intake manifold and flaps was completly cleaned but as I said it doesnt gave any impact. After all this cleaning I took a drive for 300km with high revs to burn as much carbon as possible and this helped to reduce fuel consumption up to 2 l/100km but nothing more. EGR valve also replaced, flow rate was increased from 0 to 0.7 and according to rheingold live data it moves without problem. So thats why Im out of options what to do and looking for any help in this forum.

MunichMark · 25. November 2019

Well, didn’t understand all that exactly... Was the entire tract cleaned fully up to the Valves = Walnut Blasting... and then, most important we’re the adaption setting resets done at the right time = after cleaning ?

Also the Flapper Valve Actuator Arm can break off due overload so the readings are good but the Flaps don’t move.

Running out of ideas here except to further shotgun it, hopefully there are more ideas out there from others. If you read some trails a lot of folks spend much time and money for nothing in the end so staying focused on the most likely cause helps.

Good Luck to you !